High in the hills of the Willamette National Forest, an exquisite andesite dome lies exposed on the flanks of Sardine Butte. The crag is surrounded by Douglas fir, western hemlock, and a carpet of rhododendron. Add to that the panoramic views from the summit and the dome offers a magnificent setting. While some evidence suggests that climbing began here in the 1970’s, ascents went unrecorded and the crag remained unknown to the rest of the world. Alan Amos, a local Eugene climber, discovered the crag in 1985 and recruited Mark Ashworth to begin putting up climbs the following year. On July 21, 1986, the pair marveled at the unique watercourse now known as the Hydrotube (5.8+/5.9), and Alan began questing up the deceptively tricky friction slab classic. He placed a bolt on lead ~20 feet up but didn’t see many good drilling stances above him. Instead, he traversed left and climbed the easier terrain of Acne Problem (5.7), placing three pieces for protection in the 100-foot pitch, and establishing the first recorded route at the crag.
They soon returned with their friend Walt Corvington, and the trio developed several lines at the crag over the next few years. This included Paradicey (5.10a), Scarface (5.8/5.9), Hydrotube (5.8+/5.9), Diamond Slipper (5.10a), The Off Ramp (5.10b), and Afternoon Delight (5.8), some of which are crag classics to this day. At first, they referred to the crag as Sardine Rock given its position on the Sardine Butte formation. However, Alan’s wife frequently requested the flakes laying around the base of the crag to use as garden stones. This led to the nickname of “Flagstone”, which caught on as the prevailing name of the crag.
During these first few years, Flagstone was a secret “locals only” crag that few knew existed. However, Walt and Mark invited a few more developers to the scene in 1990, including the brothers Chris and Peter Fralick. Intrigued by the excellent rock quality and combination of power and technique that the rock required, the Fralicks methodically chose the best lines available to develop. They began adding some high-quality harder lines to the crag, beginning with the crag classic Sibling Rivalry (5.11a). That same year, Walt teamed up with other developers to add a few more crag classics, including the two-pitch combination of Morning Desire (5.10a) and Walt’s Wall (5.10b), the frequently climbed Toy Box (5.7, 3 pitches), and the aid route Great White Wall (A2 5.2, 3 pitches).
Over the next few years, the Fralicks continued adding to the crag, establishing Dual Purpose (5.11c/d), This Ain’t No Disco (5.11a/b), and Shark Bite (5.11b) in 1991, Strength in Numbers (5.11c) and What’s My Line (5.11b) in 1992, and Bladder Control (5.11a/b) in 1993. In 1994, the Fralick brothers turned their attention to the third pitch of the Great White Wall, certain it would go free. After Chris redpointed the route at 5.12a, he thought deeply about what to name it. Thinking that the aid route was named as a reference to Moby Dick, he decided on Rapture of the Steep. To his dismay, he later learned that the aid route was named quite literally after the white rock on the third pitch. In 1995, the Fralicks upped the ante again, focusing their attention on the overhung East Wall. The steep climbing required the usual Flagstone technique, but with a healthy dose of power added on top. Peter redpointed Straight, No Chaser at 5.12b, establishing the first route on the wall.
The early 90’s also saw involvement from a slew of other developers, including Larry Modrell, Terry Kennedy, Eric Bestland, Eric Kubiak, Dave and Jean Trepp, Stu Rich, Steve Cuddeback, Randy Rimby, and Diane Cornett. Routes of note include the runout mental test piece Apache Acid (5.8 R), the incredible steep slab routes Beguiled (5.10d) and Harp of Stone (5.10c/d), the seldom repeated Tears of Desire (5.12b/c), and the excellent Games Without Frontiers (5.10b) in 1991, as well as the classic warmup Deep Pockets (5.9) and the fun two-pitch Pygmy Twylyte (5.8) in 1994.
In 1990, Dee and Dave Tvedt also received the invitation from Walt and Mark to check out the crag. They soon visited Flagstone and started climbing the existing routes. In 1995, they joined in the development, beginning their efforts on the upper half of Walt’s Wall, establishing Understanding Pinches (5.10d), Black Butterfly (5.11b), and Kinetic Hegemony (5.12a) that year. They had been practicing their skills at Skinner Butte (a.k.a. The Columns) in Eugene, devising increasingly difficult eliminates on the steep slab faces of the basalt columns. This skill translated nicely into the blank 5.12a opening slab crux of Kinetic Hegemony, which requires precise edging on tiny holds. When Dee was projecting the route, she would wear stiff edging shoes through the opening crux, then change shoes at the sit-down rest before attempting the 5.11c/d headwall above.
Over the next decade, the Tvedts would continue to make important contributions to the crag. After establishing the popular route Intrigue (5.10b/c) in the North Bowl, they added Dreaming Extrication (5.11c) and Dire Straits (5.11c/d) on the same wall, two of the best steep slab test pieces in the state of Oregon. Dave would go on to establish the mega-classic Joy Luck Club (5.12a) on the East Wall in 2001, which is now widely considered the best at the grade in the Willamette Valley. Several years later in 2007, Dave would establish his hardest first ascent of his career just a few feet to the right of JLC with Fragile Life (5.13a). To this day, Fragile Life has seen few ascents, likely due to the deep complexity of the route.
In addition to their harder routes, the Tvedts established a slew of easier climbs on the North Slab, North Wall, and North Bowl from 2000 to 2003, including the crag’s only fully traditional climb, the traversing Cry Me a River (5.7) on the lower Great White Wall. During many of these outings, they were accompanied by their son Keenan. At the age of 12 in 2001, Keenan was the first ascensionist of The Malediction Route (5.10b/c, 3 pitches) on the North Slab and North Wall. Many of the routes in this area were bolted to be friendly to shorter climbers, making it the perfect area for those new to the crag to get used to Flagstone’s unique style of climbing before venturing on to more runout routes.
Several other individuals left their mark on Flagstone during this era. In 1997, Adam Grosowsky added several hard lines to the crag, including Sin and Redemption (5.12c), Get Shorty (5.12c), Secrets and Lies (5.13a), and Pretty Hate Machine (5.13a) on the East Wall, and two unnamed 5.12 routes on the upper Great White Wall. In 1998, Christian Leube established Damn Rhodies (5.13b) and Motive and Opportunity (5.13b/c) on the East Wall, two of the hardest lines at the crag. He also bolted the Uber Ripper Project (5.14?) that same year, but the bolts were chopped in 2004 after others discovered that he had chipped holds in an attempt to make the route possible.
The crag’s most recent addition is courtesy of Bill Soule, who established Shingles (5.10d) in 2010, an excellent addition to the Hydrotube Area. Alan Kelly has also been instrumental to the climbing at Flagstone. In addition to being on the first ascent team for High Noon (5.8) and Swampland Express (5.10a/b, 4 pitches) in 2002, he has spearheaded the rebolting effort here along with the help of his friend David Goodman and donations from the American Safe Climbing Association. Thanks to his hard work, many of the routes on Walt’s Wall and the Hydrotube Area now feature 1/2” stainless steel sleeve bolts donated by the ASCA.
Thanks to the efforts of the many individuals listed above (and some that did not receive a mention), Flagstone remains one of the best local crags in the Willamette Area. The beautiful setting among the massive conifers, the spring flowers of the rhododendrons, and the gorgeous sunsets from the summit make it an enjoyable spot to hang out. Combine this with the impeccable rock quality, the creativity required to climb the rock, the fun routes, and the idyllic nearby camping, Flagstone is a local favorite for good reason. It is not a place to go for an easy send or an ego boost, as the style of climbing is unique, challenging, and takes some getting used to. Rather, it is a place to go for a challenge, both physically and mentally. The technical skills you learn here will make you a better climber anywhere. It is a place to go for adventure, for barefoot climbing, and for good memories. Flagstone holds a special place in the hearts of many Willamette Area climbers. We hope that you will find good times here in the future and continue being stewards to the crag for years to come.
GPS: 43.98546, -122.29840
Elevation: 4,108 ft
Drive time from Eugene: ~1 hour, 45 minutes
Drive time from Corvallis: ~2 hours, 30 minutes
Drive time from Salem: ~2 hours, 50 minutes
Approach: 2-7 minutes (0-0.2 miles, 65-200ft elevation gain)
Land manager: Willamette National Forest
Access concerns: none
Closures: none
Amenities: none
Established campsites: none
Dispersed camping: many opportunities for dispersed camping, with some excellent campsites ~15 minutes from the crag
Season: late spring through fall
Best time of year is the summer and fall
Given its high elevation, Flagstone is an excellent summer crag. The East Wall receives almost constant shade, so it makes for a great place to have a summer project.
Most of Flagstone takes a while to dry out after rain, so check the forecast before heading to the crag. That being said, there are certain sections that dry more quickly such as the Lower Walt’s Wall, Hydrotube Area, and parts of the North Slab and North Wall. Additionally, Joy Luck Club and some of its neighbors to the left stay mostly dry given their overhung nature and stay viable in the fall later than the rest of the crag.
In recent years, stretches of dry weather in the winter have made Flagstone climbable, although you may have to hike through snow to access the crag. In the winter and early spring, snow clings to the lower parts of the slab, rendering many of the routes as much as 20 feet shorter than typical.
Keep an eye out for old hardware on some lesser traveled routes. Many routes have their original stainless hardware that is in good shape, and many more have been partly or fully rebolted with 3/8” or 1/2” stainless sleeve bolts, but a few routes still sport older hardware. Not all rusted bolts are bad, but sometimes it’s hard to know for sure without removing the bolt from the rock.
Rock type: andesite with white plagioclase feldspar crystals
Rock quality:
Flagstone has some of the best rock quality in the state of Oregon
While some routes feature hollow sounding flakes, most of the flakes are still well attached and pose little problem
Despite the excellent rock, the slabby nature of much of the crag means that many routes often hold lichens, mosses, and debris. An ongoing cleaning effort has helped clean up many of the routes, but consistent traffic and more volunteer work is needed to keep the routes clean.
Hardware: The hardware is a mixture of old and new, although the prevailing bolt type is the five-piece sleeve bolt. The original bolts are a mix of stainless and zinc plated and tend to be either 1/4” or 3/8”. Several routes have been partially or fully rebolted over the years with stainless steel 3/8” or 1/2” bolts. You will also find a handful of beefy stainless glue-ins, primarily as access anchors for setting up top ropes, especially when the rock is still damp.
Bolting ethic:
The bolting ethic at Flagstone varies widely
Many early developers looked to save money by spacing out protection
Some routes like Apache Acid (5.8 R) feature consistent runouts of 15-20 feet between bolts
Many routes like Sibling Rivalry (5.11a) and Paradicey (5.10a) feature isolated runouts, but the rest of the climb is reasonably bolted
Most of the routes on Walt’s Wall and the Hydrotube Area may feel runout given the insecure nature of the climbing but rarely feature spacing upwards of 8 feet between bolts
Most of the routes on the North Slab and North Wall are tightly bolted
Most of the routes in the North Bowl and the East Wall feature comfortable bolt spacing. You won’t feel runout, but you also won’t be skipping many bolts.
Anchors: While some routes at Flagstone feature loweroffs, most of the routes have rap rings or chains at the anchors. A few routes only have bolts, but typically these are routes that are descended via walk-off.
Type of routes:
Mostly sport climbs, with a few mixed routes, one trad route, and one aid route
Mostly single pitch, but with a delightful assortment of short multi-pitch routes
Number of routes: 74 routes
Style:
Sport: 68
Mixed: 2
Trad: 1
Top Rope: 2
Aid: 1
Pitch count:
1 pitch: 56
2 pitches: 10
3 pitches: 7
4 pitches: 1
Range of difficulty: 5.5 - 5.13b/c
Difficulty spread:
< 5.10: 17
5.10: 22
5.11: 15
5.12: 14
5.13: 5
A2: 1
Toy Box – 5.7, 3 pitches
Hydrotube – 5.9, 2 pitches
Diamond Slipper – 5.10a, 2 pitches
Walt’s Wall – 5.10b (second pitch to Morning Desire, 5.10a)
Sibling Rivalry – 5.11a
This Ain’t No Disco – 5.11a/b
Dreaming Extrication – 5.11c
Joy Luck Club – 5.12a, 2 pitches
Straight, No Chaser – 5.12b
Fragile Life – 5.13a
Print guidebook:
Flagstone: A Climber’s Guide, Ben Scott & Mark Ashworth, 1999, University of Oregon Outdoor Program (no longer in print)
Rock Climbing Western Oregon Volume 1: The Willamette, Greg Orton, 2006, Mountain N’ Air Books