Eagles Rest is a beloved crag near Dexter, offering excellent climbing on sometimes less-than-excellent rock. The beautiful setting in an old growth forest makes this a truly special place to climb. A short drive and even shorter approach make this a popular crag for the Willamette climbing community. Given that most of the routes here feature new hardware, easy loweroffs, and close bolt spacing, it’s a friendly place to work on your sport climbing. Just don’t forget your helmet! It’s certainly a bit chossy, but tread carefully and you’ll pull on solid rock. Most of the climbing at Eagles is vertical to slightly overhung. The climbing really shines in the 5.11 range and up, but there are opportunities at lower grades as well. While a few routes were developed in the early 2000’s, most of the routes have been put up since 2018. This development effort included Dee and Dave Tvedt, Micah Elconin, Lacey Johnson, John “Sully” Sullivan, Keenan Tvedt, Andrew Hadlock, Kristin Gloystein, JD Merritt, and others.

• GPS: 43.84612, -122.74743

• Elevation: 2,859 ft

• Drive time from Eugene: ~45 minutes

• Drive time from Corvallis: ~1 hour, 20 minutes

• Drive time from Salem: ~1 hour, 45 minutes

• Approach: ~5 minutes (0.2 miles, 250ft elevation gain)

• Land manager: Bureau of Land Management

• Access concerns: none

• Closures: none

• Amenities: none

• Established campsites: none

• Dispersed camping: some opportunities for dispersed camping

• Weather forecast

• Season: year round

  • The Sun Deck takes only a day or two to dry in the winter

  • Other walls like the Studio and Quarantine Wall dry fairly quickly

  • Some specific walls seep longer like the Old Growth Wall

  • Some specific routes seep longer like Wet Dreams

  • Some specific routes stay dry in the rain like Unpaid Internship

• Beware of rockfall and loose rock, sometimes from hikers above, so wear a helmet!

• Beware of wasps on routes or trails seasonally

• Trails and belay areas are fragile and prone to erosion

• Rock type: basalt

• Rock quality:

  • Definitely some choss to be aware of

  • Some of the rock can get moss or lichen, but much of it stays clean

• Hardware: most of the hardware is new and in great shape, primarily 316 stainless steel wedge bolts, and many steeper/harder routes are partially equipped with permadraws

• Bolting ethic: mostly closely spaced bolts and low first bolts

• Anchors: mostly loweroffs, some rap rings

• Fixed lines: some fixed lines, mostly getting to and up on the Sun Deck

• Type of routes:

  • All sport except for one trad route that never gets climbed

  • Mostly single pitch, but a few multipitch routes on the Dream Wall

  • Several of the routes are linkups

• Number of routes: 91

• Style:

  • Sport: 90

  • Mixed (sport/trad): 1

• Pitch count:

  • 1 pitch: 87

  • 2 pitches: 2

  • 3 pitches: 1

  • 4 pitches: 1

• Range of difficulty: 5.6 – 5.13d

• Difficulty spread:

  • < 5.10: 12

  • 5.10: 15

  • 5.11: 34

  • 5.12: 20

  • 5.13: 10

• Bohemian Slab City – 5.9

• Requiem for a Dream – 5.10c, 4 pitches

• Bones of Ymir – 5.10d

• Murmurations – 5.11a

• Livin’ a Dream – 5.11d

• Rogue Pack – 5.12b

• Emotion Sickness – 5.12d

• Feasibility Study - 5.12d

• Mindshift – 5.13a/b

• House of Cards – 5.13c

• Mountain Project

• Google Spreadsheet

• Print guidebook: none